Not Just A Trip...Melaka

 Melaka is located on the Western Coast of Peninsular Malaysia facing the Straits of Melaka, about 147 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur and 245 kilometers from Singpore. Melaka is actually found sandwiched between the states of Negeri Sembilan and Johor. It can be reached by excellent roads from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Internally it is serviced by a very good network of roads leading to all the historical places of interest. It covers and area of 658 square kilometers and is divided into three districts namely Alor Gajah, Melaka Tengah and Jasin.

Melaka was founded by Parameswara (or Raja Iskandar) the last Malay ruler of Temasik (ancient Singapore) in 1396 when he and his followers retreated up the straits to Muar, then to Sungai Ujung before settling at Bertam near the estuary of Melaka River.

Finding the place of strategic location, he decided to make a permanent settlement there, naming it "Melaka" after the name of the tree he leaned against.

             The Melaka Sultanate occupies a special position in the history of Malaysia. Its inauguration marked the beginning of the emergence of a new Malay empire. The birthplace of the Malay Sultanates and Malaysia's historic city, Melaka provided the stage on which the Portuguese, Dutch and English played out their roles in shaping the history.

Melaka emerged as a strong maritime trading state under the industrious Parameswara and his chiefs. Melaka also began to be noticed by Muslim traders from West Asia and India, who until that period, had been concentrating their activities in Aru, Pedir and Pasai en-route to the East, especially China. Because of its strategic location straddling the Straits of Melaka, it thrived as a port-of-call and a centre of entrepot trade with ships and merchants from China, Japan, India, Arab and South Africa.

In 1511, it fell to the hands of the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch in 1641 after a fierce battle. In 1795, Melaka was given to the British to prevent it falling to the French when the Netherlands was captured during the Napoleonic Wars. It was returned to the Dutch in 1818 under the treaty of Vienna but was later exchanged by the British for Bangkahulu, Sumatra. From 1826 onwards, the British East India Company along with Singapore and Penang governed it, under the Straits Settlement administration in Calcutta.

The Dutch, who held Melaka for over a century, left many fine buildings marking their heritage. The most imposing relic of the Dutch period is the Stadthuys, a strikingly pink town hall which is today the oldest Dutch building in the Far East. Right next to it stands the bright red Christ Church, constructed with pink bricks imported from Holland and covered with local red lacerite. Today, these buildings together with the ruins of the Portuguese built A Famosa and St. Paul's Church are the most prominent reminders of the Europeans' presence in Melaka.

After World War II, anti-colonial sentiment bred in the country among the nationalists, the result of which was the proclamation of Independence by Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra, Malaysia's first Prime Minister, at the Padang Pahlawan (Warrior's Field) at Bandar Hilir, Melaka on 20 February 1956.

 St. Paul’s Hill (A Famosa)
As you may know, the Portuguese came to Malacca in 1511 and ruled the place till 1641.  When they arrived at the shores of Melaka, the first thing they did was build a fort overlooking the river.  They named it A Famosa.  The A Famosa is one of the oldest European Architecture present in Southeast Asia.


Throughout the Portuguese rule, the fort was critical to their foothold of the island because the town was constantly under threats from other foreign bigwigs (i.e. the British and Dutch).  It was not only important for Melaka; the fort was also instrumental in maintaining the Portuguese stronghold across the Far East.  The fort consists of housing and food stores, a castle, a meeting room for the Portuguese Council and five churches.

In the late 17th century, Malacca came under attack by the Dutch and was significantly damaged, leaving only the entrance façade and the structure of a church at the top of the hill.  In the early 19th century, the fortress was taken over by the British who decided to destroy it.  This destruction came about in the year 1806; all was demolished expect for a small part, what is found today, the last bit of the once active and important fortress.


 Melaka River - The Venice of the East

 The Melaka River or Sungai Malacca can be seen as the beginning of Malacca history, when it was called ‘Venice of the East’ by the Europeans who traveled to it.  Its historical importance also lies in the fact that, during the 15th century, the Prince Parameswara of Sumatra created his Sultanate at the entrance to this river.  It was on the east bank, at the bottom of Malaccan Hill (now known as St. Paul’s Hill), where he placed his palace.  On its route to the sea, the Melaka River travels pass the town of Malacca; many old villages, along with present day buildings, line its banks.  It is of no surprise that for these reasons the river passage was an important route for major trade and commerce.

The Melaka River Cruise

There is now a 45-minute cruise that goes along the Melaka River which visitors find exciting and informative.  It is said to be a good bargain and the 10 kilometer Melake River Cruise takes off at the mouth of the river, at the Dutch Square, and it travels all the way to Kampung Morten.  The Tan Boon Seng Bridge is seen along the way, and it is important to point out its immense historical importance.  The Portuguese used this bridge to capture the state; they divided Melaka in half and cut off communications in between.

That’s not all as there are two more important bridges to go!  The Chan Boon Cheng Bridge is seen further along.  Constructed in 1908 and rebuilt in 1963, it is a steel bridge that links the older Chinatown (Kampung Pantai) with the new Chinatown (around the Jalan Bunga Raya).  Later on there is the Ghostbridge of Malacca, for pedestrians, that links Kampung Hulu with Jalan Kee Ann and the old Central Market.  This pedestrian bridge was originally used for fishing trade and there are many Chinese restaurants in the area for this reason.  One of the restaurants is now famous because it was used in Entrapment, a movie produced by Hollywood.

Other highlights of the cruise are the old homes and warehouses that are built on both sides of the river.  High tide is the only time in which it is available, so visitors should plan ahead to fit this into their schedule.  The Central Market is nearby and visitors can also see the Jalan Hang Tuah Bridge that links Jalan Munshi Abdullah with Jalan Hang Tuah.  There was a theatre called the Cathay Cinema, but it is now closed.  To the left of it is the Express Bus Terminal for Jalan Kilang.  Buses can be taken to any other part of Malaysia at a reasonable price and old shops line the street in a quiet manner.

The last destination on the cruise completes the trip wonderfully.  It is Kampung Morten, a very old village.  It is a national heritage site that is well taken care of and its beauty lies in the traditional Malay architecture, reflecting older lifestyles and culture.  The Melaka River Cruise is a major tourist attraction and since it allows visitors to enjoy history in a much more entertaining way, it is a picture of the Melakan State at its best!

Directions

The Melaka River Cruise is centrally located and so it is easily accessible from anywhere in Melaka using just a taxi or a trishaw.

 Historical City of Melaka

Melaka is among the third smallest Malaysian state.  The state of Malacca is located in the southern region of the Malay Peninsula.  The capital of the state is Malacca Town and the state is headed by the Governor or Yang di-Pertua Negeri.  This historical city received the popular recognition of World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2008.
Melaka History
Melaka was founded in 1400 by Parameswara, a young Hindu prince from Palembang.  Parameswara fled from the Javanese enemy of his homeland.  Under his reign, Melaka grew to be the famous port for trading between the East and the West.  It was also the center of spice trade between the Malay and the Indonesian archipelagos.  Indians, Arabs, China and Siam peoples, traded tea, cotton, silk, silver, porcelain, ivory, Persian carpets, brassware, perfumes, pearls, incense and opium.  Parameswara was also the first Malay prince to embrace Islam; hence, Islam became the official religion of Melaka.
Some 60 years later, the wealth of the State caught attention of the Portuguese and the Dutch.  In 1511, the Portuguese, under the command of Alfonso de Albuquerque, conquered Melaka.
In 1641, the Dutch took over Melaka from the Portuguese after a long and fierce battle.  In 1795, Melaka was handed over to the British to avoid its capture by the French Revolutionary Armies.  The British returned the city to the Dutch in 1808; however, the British soon took it back in trade for Bencoleen, Sumatra.
From 1826, the English East India Company in Calcutta ruled the city, although from 1942 to 1945 the city experienced Japanese occupation too.
After World War II, the anti-colonial sentiment resulted in the proclamation of Independence by Malaysia’s first Prime Minister.
Melaka Culture
The city of Melaka is rich in heritage and culture from their daily lives to the historical landmarks.  In front of every house in Melaka are the Malacca Steps.
Melaka is well-known for its food.  Some of the traditional Malay dishes include ikan asam pedas, sambal belacan and cencaluk.  Belacan, or shrimp paste, is a traditional ingredient used in many dishes, or eaten with rice.
The Nyon-Baba cuisine is also seen in Melaka, which is a mixture of Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, Indian, British and Malay cooking.  These dishes are generally spicy.  The Devil’s Curry and the Portuguese egg tarts were added to the cuisine by the Portuguese.

 Jonker Street: The Street with Many Names

 Visitors might want to choose a name to call this street according to their mood!  Located at the very heart of Melaka, Malaysia, they might prefer to use Jonker Street, which is what it is fondly remembered by.  This narrow alley was once a wealthy street filled with rich colonial residents and today it has become a paradise for antique collectors.  Featuring unique antique pieces that date as far back as the 17th century, it attracts bargain hunters looking for handmade Chinese porcelain, decorative brassware, cast iron beds, lamps, age old coins and genuine paper money that were used during early Melakan trade and commerce.  Visitors can also find priceless Buddha statues and other one of a kind pieces that were made by locals during different Melakan eras.

Shopkeepers offer great deals to buyers.  Indeed, Jonker Street is the best place to hunt for unusual finds and center pieces.  Among the noted antique dealers are Abdul Company (which sells antique furniture, Chinese porcelain, brassware, cast-iron beds, and lamps from all over Malaysia); pioneers T.K. Kutty and Hj Abu Bakar.  Popular second hand shops are also found at Nos 25, 26 and 55.  Within these shops, you can find antiques dating back as far as 300 years and you may even come across some Victorian memorabilia.

Jonker Street is part of Melaka’s old Chinatown.  This, aside from the fact that most of Jonker Street’s occupants are Chinese, appears to be the reason why this street is closely identified to Chinatown, and some people even mistakenly refer to this street with the latter.  On the other hand, Jonker Walk is part of Jonker Street.  This is the exact location of the Jonker Walk night market (a must-do when visiting Melaka!).

While Jonker Street is known worldwide for its rare and priceless finds, during weekends (around 6pm) the street is transformed into a busy, carnival like affair which tourists visiting Melaka eagerly look forward to!  The Jonker Walk night market is a weekly affair for locals where they assemble stalls and display products to sell.  The usual wares you can find on this side of the street reflect their cultural heritage with local and ethnic Melakan fare; you can take a little bit of Melaka home with you through the indigenous handicrafts and souvenirs, ornamental jewelry and wooden clogs.  Prices tend go higher for non-locals, but some stalls encourage bargaining.  For a bazaar type shopping spree while in Melaka, don’t miss the Jonker Walk night market!

 Another thing that has made Jonker Street in Melaka famous is its food choices. This street is considered the most popular food and entertainment district in Melaka, Malaysia.  Here you can find extensive food options from different cultures.  One must try Baba Nyonya delicacies to complete his  or her journey through Melaka!  Jonker Street is full of shops and cafés  that you’ll enjoy during the daytime, while food hawkers will beckon you at night.  You can just imagine how busy Jonker Street is, anytime of the day, what with the wide variety of food and beverages that are offered.  Ice cold desserts are among the most famous ones, and they come highly recommended for hungry travelers.

Other “must try” food trips are Melaka’s signature dishes, such as Chicken Rice Balls, Dim Sum, seaweed, candied fruits, Put Chai Ko, Hongkong’s Curry fish balls, Nyonya’s pineapple tarts, fried radish cake, Popiah, barbecue squid, fried carrot cake, Vadai and herbal eggs.  This is only a portion of the extensive food list that you should try while passing through Jonker Street.  Basically, Chicken Rice Balls are balled rice, served with sweet chili sauce and steamed chicken meat.  One picky palate could never go wrong here.

If you have a craving for some nightlife, Jonker Street offers karaoke nights (where the entrance is free!) and you can sing your heart out in whatever language or dialect you like best between English, Mandarin, Hokkien and Hakka.

 Although the residents of Jonker Street have made some improvements to their way of life and have adapted some modern methods, the area has never lost its cultural charm and tradition.  This, in fact, is very visible in the Jonker Street architure; what with their buildings, houses and shops constructed with elaborate carvings and pillars, the Jonker Street area truly reflects the culture and heritage of Melaka, Malaysia.